Archive for March, 2008

Prohibited – Dyes List for GOTS & OE Standards

March 27, 2008 · Filed under Textile · Tagged , , ,

Dyes and regulation

In the last month i started to collect the dyes list which are all fullfilling the GOTS and OE standards. After reading many documents and interaction, i obtained a collection of information. So here i am sharing with you. (Many of this given information you can find in the oeko – text blog too)For my query Patty and Leigh Anne Answered:

“There are many, many prohibited dyes. GOTS prohibits the use of all amine releasing azo dyes, for instance. This prohibited category includes the following chemical compounds with their CAR RN (chemical label) :  Azo dyes (Restricted amines – from Azo dyes) 

  • 4- Aminodiphenyl (92-67-1)
  • Benzidine (92-87-5) 
  • 4-Chloro-o-Toluidine (95-69-2) 
  • 2- Napthylamine (91-59-8) 
  • o-Aminoazotoluene (97-56-3) 
  • 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene (99-55-8) 
  • 2,4 Diaminoanisole (615-05-4)4,4 
  •  Diaminodiphenylmethane (101-77-9) 
  • 3,3-Dichlorobenzidine (91-94-1) 
  • 3,3- Dimethoxybenzidine (o-Dianisidine) (119-90-4) 
  • 3,3- Dimethylbenzidine (o-Tolidine) (119-93-7) 
  • 3,3- Dimethyl-4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane (838-88-0) 
  • p-Chloroaniline (106-47-8) 
  • p-Cresidine (120-71-8) 
  • 4,4-Methylen-bis-(2- chloroaniline) (101-14-4) 
  • 4,4- Oxydianiline (101-80-4) 
  • 4,4- Thiodianiline (139-65-1) 
  • 2,4- Toluenediamine (95-80-7) 
  • o-Toluidine (95-53-4) 
  • 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline (137-17-7) 
  • o-Anisidine (90-04-0)
  •  p-Amino-azobenzene (60-09-3) 

 There are many other categories of prohibited residues from dyes or from chemicals used in any of the other other production stages. Prohibited residues above a certain threshold using a specified test  include formaldehyde and other aldehydes,  heavy metals,  PVC, organotin compounds, AOX, disperse dyes, and a whole list of other chemicals. This is important because, as you probably know, many of these chemicals, especially the heavy metals, are a component of –  or a mordant or fixative for – dyestuffs.

 In addition, there are requirements that dyestuffs must meet regarding oral toxicity, aquatic toxicity, biodegradability, eliminability and bi-accumulation in fatty tissues.  The GOTS details are on their website:  www.global-standard.org.  Some dyestuff producers advertise that they have a dye group that meets these standards, such as Huntsman and Clariant. As you know, vegetable and natural dyes are often some of the most heinous violators of some of these rules. Natural and vegetable dyes when used with usual mordants, fixatives, etc., are definitely NOT an eco choice.  As you also may know, this list of prohibited chemicals and limited chemical residues will most likely become longer in the coming years with the very important EU REACH legislation. We all suffer from the fact that most chemicals – in fact the vast majority – in industrial use currently have not been tested for aquatic toxicity, oral toxicity – haven’t been tested at all in most cases”.  

Further to this i have uploaded the document which may usefull to use as a guide to proceed with the dyes stuff selection.gots_approved-dyes-list-dec07;  Updated list of approved dyes list.

 

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Small Step!!!!

March 24, 2008 · Filed under Inside Story, Textile · Tagged , , , , , ,

The dynamics of global apparel trade is undergoing a major change and players worldwide are waiting to see how the change will affect their business. Which are the factors according to you that will influence the direction in which global sourcing in apparel will move in the coming seasons and will India get a bigger share in the sourcing pie, once the picture becomes clear? (Qn published in the Mind Tree Section – Apparel Online) (This was published on the Feb Month 08.)


It is undeniable statement that; clothing industry playing a leading role in the export growth of our Asian zone. Of course one can clearly states that international trade depends on the economic condition, government policies and industries responsibility towards the sustainable production techniques. The sectoral studies series report of UNIDO states that, the apparel sector is identified as a buyer – driven value chain which contains three types of lead firms; retailers, marketers and branded manufacturers. In the growing market conditions every part of the chain must concentrate to build the capabilities to meet the requirement and they have to upgrade themselves with their social responsibilities. The main advantage for India is its position as the third largest cotton producer in the world and well equipped spinning and weaving sectors. However these advantages won’t help us to overcome some issues like rupee appreciation and emerging competitiveness from our neighboring countries. The other general factors which may influence the sourcing are the lack of skilled labour force, technical skills, cost for the production and energy, time schedule for the delivery, capacity to meet the demand and lack of well equipped market based research team. The above said issues can be nullified only if the industries are adapting the social accountability, sustainable way of production with the consideration of energy conservation and the social responsibilities. Industries have to focus mainly on the eco-friendly and pollution free production in all stages of manufacturing to attract the foreign buyers.

Azhahia Manavalan Raman

Executive – Team Technical

CONQUEST – Tirupur.

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